Sunday, December 27, 2020

Route 66 Gallup, New Mexico to Amarillo, Texas: May 30, 2019 Day 9 Santa Rosa to Tucumcari, New Mexico

NM-TX-OK ROUTE 66 ADVENTURE
Day 9--Santa Rosa, NM to Tucumcari, NM
Today's Distance: 60 miles (97 km)
Total Distance so far: 423 miles (681 km)

From Shelley Brothers Cycling Adventure Facebook page (written and published in almost real time):

AM--Our tire pump broke early when Kent was pumping up his tires. (Not saying it was HIS fault...🤔)  Which meant that if we got a flat, there were only enough CO2 emergency cartridges to do ONE tube (maybe).  No bike stores in Santa Rosa... ugh.

Rode 31 of our total miles (50 km) on old sections of Route 66.  Saw 5 cars in 3 hours. 😁

Were chased by yet ANOTHER thunderstorm this afternoon.  The sky broke open just as we were unlocking our motel room door.  Rained for over an hour.  We dodged a BIG bullet.

The cycling "community" is made up of some amazing people.  We stopped by the only bike shop in Tucumcari, hoping to replace our pump.  Brandon, the owner, was off doing a spin class, but the guy with the auto shop next door called him so we could talk.  After his spin class, he brought a pump right to our motel room!! 

Due to recent weather events in Texas and Oklahoma, we have decided to forego our scheduled rest day in Amarillo, shortening the mileage on our remaining days to try to beat the afternoon "severe" weather.  We'll keep an eye on things and try to make wise and safe decisions!



Today's journey. 

Even as a child travelling from our home in California to visit family in Texas, I appreciated the greenness of New Mexico. Though not an Amazon Jungle, New Mexico green feels welcoming to travelers. 



Santa Rosa certainly embraces their historic connection with Route 66. Throughout the town of 3,000, one finds beautiful restored and original condition vehicles and Route 66 "Shops." 

Unfortunately, they were all closed as we pedaled out of town just before regular business hours commenced. 



Definitely a "Grapes of Wrath" vintage vehicle. 

When movie director John Ford filmed Steinbeck's classic novel "Grapes of Wrath" in 1939, he choose Santa Rosa as location for the significant train scene when Tom Joad (Henry Fonda) watches a train cross the Pecos River bridge as it chugs into the sunset.



"Hi again, Mater!" We're old friends. Saw this guy back in Seligman, Arizona :-)

He gets around pretty good for his age, doesn't he?



I post this not to show we are breaking the law. 

I don't think we were, but I can't remember the justification we had for ignoring this sign. 

It was probably because legal exceptions are made for cyclists when there is no other reasonable alternative route between the cyclists' destination. A quick glimpse at a map confirms this is indeed the situation we find ourselves today. However, we always make it our policy to get off the Interstate as soon as a reasonable alternative becomes available. 

I post this photo because it demonstrates the extremely chose connection old Route 66 has with the US Interstate Highway System. In this instance, old Route 66 constitutes part of Interstate 40's eastbound on-ramp. 

In the new few minutes we watched the old Route 66 pavement disappear underneath the concrete of the Interstate.

How's that for watching the historical disappear before your very eyes?



We cruise with the cars across the level landscape. 

Can you see Mark, the Dot, in the distance in the centre of the photo?



A truly large and beautiful landscape and sky.



At the side of the Interstate we across an Antelope. (It was much closer before I was able to snap the photo.)

Just like the 1874 classic song, "Home, home on the range, where the deer and the antelope play" (and hopefully avoid the Interstate traffic all day).




A lot of these "Eat Big In Texas" signs. Very effective for increasing one's appetite.



Is this iconic not so Old West, or what?!

So does one ask the Horse, "Would you prefer Queen or double bed?"



Leaving the Interstate is always refreshing in that we immediately find ourselves in the real culture of the land we travel.



We pedal a long stretch of relatively untouched and noncommercialized old Route 66. 

We pass many abandoned gas stations, motels, and restaurants that once provided relief for travellers as well as a strong business backbone for thriving local economies.   



Along these stretches we heard only the wind.

We saw only 6 cars in three hours.
 


Ghost Town after Ghost Town on old Route 66.



Once a gas station and restaurant for the travelling families.



A beautiful ride today. One of my favourite day rides along all of Route 66.

See Bro Mark blazing a trail ahead?



Classic Southwest, New Mexico, and Route 66 scene.



An old but well maintained section of Route 66. 

With hardly any vehicles, a paradise for cyclists.



One of the few vintage 66 stations, still in business in this area.



I'm not sure how much this Old Fart cyclist is actually fueled by natural gas, but Bro Mark remains essentially unstoppable when it comes to long distance bike touring.



Another haunt for Ghosts on the Old Road.



Yet another. (I take and post these pictures, because despite a growing sense of need to preserve these establishments from old ago, I feel it will be too late for many of them. So at least these pictures preserve something of their once vibrant role in American history and life.)



I always wonder what it was like for the families and communities that served this vital cross country link across the USA.



Old home connected to newer trailer. 



Once a busy Motor Court.



While pedaling Route 66, we are seldom far from the sights and sounds of the railways that preceded the Mother Road.



Once the local "watering hole" for the farmers and ranchers of the area.



This community cemetery predates Route 66 by 16 years.



Constructed as part of the massive works projects designed to help Americans pull through the Great Depression.



Notice the Interstate (right) paralleling 66.


Appreciation to the Interstate engineers who built over Route 66, rather than burying it.

Water collected on the road. No surprise. It seems to be raining some everyday.



"Share the Road" becomes a very wise idea when it comes to this slithering creature making its way across. 



Entering Tucumcari we see the economic impact of the Interstate Highway bypassing the community. 



Abandoned businesses. Couldn't be sold. Just walked away from.




For the past 45 minutes we have been racing ahead of a thunderstorm.

Fortunately, the stormfront created a substantial tailwind that actually pushed us towards the town of Tucumcari's 5,000 residents. 

We stopped briefly at the only bike shop in town to inquire about purchasing a pump that would be essential to any future tire repairs we might experience. 

The shop was closed, but the auto repair shop owner next door called the bike shop owner for us, and we arranged to have a pump delivered to our motel room that night.

Such are the good hearted people we frequently meet on our our journey across America.

Just as we were unlocking the door to our vintage Route 66 "Americana Motel" room, the sky released its deluge. Huge drops of rain pounded the pavement and roof as we gratefully stepped inside our room.

It has been a long, good day. 

We welcome the showers, food, and hours of rest.



As you can see, even though our ride took us downhill, we had enough uphill segments to accumulate some significant elevation.




Monday, August 17, 2020

Route 66 Gallup, New Mexico to Amarillo, Texas: Las Vegas KOA to Santa Rosa, New Mexcio, May 29 Day 8

After a good night's sleep and rest we are getting ready to roll. 

A cooler morning for a change here at the Las Vega, New Mexico, KOA Campground.

Light windbreaker/jacket needed.



The cabin has little extra room to maneuver when occupied by two guys, a bunk bed, a regular bed, and two bikes, so we do our packing and loading outside.

That's Brother Mark awakening and greeting the dawn in his usually good spirits.

Our first stop involves the Subway sandwhich franchise just outside the campground.



A beautiful morning and excellent road for cycling.

Notice the super wide smooth paved shoulder. A safe way to travel.



Route 66 presents as a living museum inviting reflection into its history: What might be the story behind this vintage abandoned auto and the people associated with it? Where were they from? Where were they headed? Did they reach their destination? 

Route 66 may be traveled for many different reasons. Many seek the zany tourist element of Route 66. 

I seek the living history embedded in the Mother Road. So many lives. So many destinies. So fascinating.


 
All that remains of an old bridge. Perhaps an original Route 66 bridge replaced by the newer alignment we ride today.



Meet Steve.

He's not our long lost brother, but we do share some rugged, good-looking characteristics, eh? 

Steve heads west. (We pedalling east.)

Steve has headwinds. (We don't.)

As a veteran cyclist traveling alone, Steve's target destination of Phoenix, Arizona, home to his son, awaits him.




Our eyes feast on beautiful and wide open spaces today.

But our stomachs want more than scenery.

Unfortunately, the 99.1 km (61 miles) we cover today offer us almost zero opportunities for places to eat. 

We had a big breakfast at Subway in Los Vegas this morning. 

We ordered extra subs to carry with us for our next real meal.

(We fuel and feast on, or at least tolerate, powerbars and sport drinks while we pedal along.)

We hoped this remote vingate "cowboy bar" would be open and serve food. 

Part of our hopes were realized. 

Maesta's Lounge and Bar Games was open, but wasn't serving food. Cold drinks yes.



Standing outside Maesta's Lounge and Bar Games, I stretch my legs, and for some strange reason wear my windbreaker. I don't recall it being cool at all.

In the middle of this weekday, we are, no surprise, the only customers. 

I googled this place. Many 4.9 star reviews. "A good place to go." I'm sure it is. 

But it is also, as far as we can tell, just about the only place to go for quite some distance.

No food served in middle of the day. No problem. We brought our own slightly travelled subs from our breakfast stop in Las Vegas near the KOA, and it's ok for us to eat our subs in the wonderfully quiet, dark, very vintage establishment. 

The restrooms (American)/washrooms (Canadian) rank high among both the cleanest and oldest I ever used. Talk about stepping into a Time Machine. 

The gentleman holding down the fort during this low traffic customer day, quietly accepted payment for my two cans of Coca Cola. (I wouldn't want to dehydrate now, would I? :-) 

During our brief stay he finsihed up one re-run espisode of Bonanza on the Western Channel, and began another, enjoying the super large screen TV and impressive surround sound mini-theater.



Down the road from Maesta's refueling station, we cross yet another brown water river so typical of the region.



Way behind us, under those dark, moisture-laden thunder-head clouds sits our starting point, Las Vegas, New Mexico. 

But the clouds are not sitting still. (See next photo.)


 
Clouds closer. Clouds darker. Clouds moving our way, faster than we move away from them.

 

Can almost smell the rain.

(See our road behind us riding the swells of the rolling hills?)



Didn't see any. But we know they are out there.



No time to dawdle. We aren't the Storm Chasers. We are the Storm Chased.

Full speed ahead towards our destination for the night. 



With gravity on our side, and the wind at our backs, we arrive at our destination just before the storm clouds. 

(This being Storm Chased every evening becomes a pattern that will eventually create serious issues for us in a few days when we arrive in Amarillo, Texas.)

Another Classic Vintage Route 66 Motel. Much the same as it was decades ago.



Nicely maintained, clean, comfortable rooms.

Truth be told, after almost 100 km (62 miles) today, I probably could have slept soundly on the park lot. 

But I'm grateful for this bed. 



Amost right across the street, Joseph's Bar and Grill.

Excellent Mexican food supper. 

Really fine family owned restaurant for fine, hungry families.

Gift store loaded with lots of nice Route 66 memorabilia.

Tired, but full and happy, we return to motel.

We attend to preliminary packing for tomorrow, and call it a day. 


Maps make it look short and easy!


The elevation graph makes my cyclist heart smile, especially after our traversing of the so-called "Foothills of the Rockies" a few days ago.




Had a few short but steep descents reaching so uncomfortably high speeds for me. 

As heavily loaded as we are, the fast downhills feel dangerous. 

At 63 kph (almost 40 mph) I'm not fully in control of the bike. Can't stop quickly. Can't turn effectively. 

Every little bump gives my bike a severe case of the wobbles.